Confirmation of Pigments in Cosmetics by High-energy CID MS/MS using the MALDI-7090™MALDI-TOF-TOF Mass Spectrometer

Significance of the Topic

The global cosmetics industry relies on vibrant colorants to meet consumer expectations, drive product differentiation and ensure regulatory compliance for ingredient transparency. Accurate identification of pigments is essential for labeling, safety assessments and catering to specific markets such as vegan, halal and organic segments.

Objectives and Study Overview

This study presents a streamlined workflow to confirm the presence of color pigments in commercial lipsticks using high-energy collision-induced dissociation (CID) MS/MS on a MALDI-TOF-TOF mass spectrometer. Four lipstick formulations representing non-vegan/non-organic, organic (non-vegan) and vegan/halal combinations were analyzed to validate pigment identities against standard references.

Methodology

Pigments were extracted from lipstick matrices by adding solvent (water/methanol or dichloromethane), followed by 30-minute sonication and centrifugation. Extracts were mixed with 9-aminoacridine matrix and deposited for MALDI-TOF analysis in negative ion mode. Initial mass profiles were acquired on the MALDI-8030, followed by targeted high-energy CID MS/MS on the MALDI-7090 to generate structural fingerprints for pigment confirmation.

Used Instrumentation

• MALDI-8030: dual-polarity linear MALDI-TOF for isotopic mass profiling
• MALDI-7090: MALDI-TOF-TOF platform with high-energy CID capability
• Matrix: 9-aminoacridine (10 mg/mL in methanol)

Main Results and Discussion

High-energy CID MS/MS spectra of Red 7 (CI 15850), Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140) and Carmine (CI 75470) in lipsticks matched corresponding standard fingerprints, confirming their identities with high confidence. Some minor additional fragments indicated potential co-fragmenting species but did not impede correct identification. Signal intensity variations reflected differing pigment concentrations across formulations.

Benefits and Practical Applications

• Minimal sample preparation with low solvent use
• Rapid and reliable pigment confirmation for quality control
• High mass accuracy and isotopic resolution for confident identification
• Enables verification of vegan, halal and organic compliance

Future Trends and Opportunities

Advancements may include automated extraction workflows, integration of ambient ionization techniques, application of machine learning for spectral interpretation, and expansion to other cosmetic matrices such as eye and nail products. Broader adoption in routine QA/QC and regulatory surveillance can further drive industry standards.

Conclusion

The combined workflow of simple solvent extraction and high-energy CID MS/MS on the MALDI-7090 offers a fast, robust and high-confidence approach for pigment identification in complex cosmetic formulations, supporting diverse market requirements and regulatory obligations.

References

1. Zion Market Research. A Global Cosmetic Products Market Size, Share, 2017–2024. 2018.
2. Belgacem O, Pittenauer E, Openshaw ME, et al. Rapid Commun Mass Spectrom. 2016;30(3):343–351.
3. Riaz MN, Chaudry MM. Handbook of Halal Food Production. 2018; p. 30.