Confirmation of Pigments in Cosmetics by High-energy CID MS/MS using the MALDI-7090™ MALDI-TOF-TOF Mass Spectrometer

Significance of the Topic

The global cosmetics industry is valued at over USD 863 billion and relies on vibrant pigments to meet safety, regulatory and cultural requirements. Confirming pigment identity ensures compliance with labeling regulations, consumer dietary restrictions and allergy considerations.

Objectives and Study Overview

This study presents a streamlined method to extract and unambiguously confirm pigments in commercial lipsticks, covering non-vegan, organic and vegan-halal products. The workflow integrates simple solvent extraction with high-energy collision induced dissociation mass spectrometry.

Methodology

Pigments were extracted from lipstick samples using water/methanol or dichloromethane, assisted by sonication and centrifugation. Extracts were mixed with 9-aminoacridine matrix and analyzed in negative ion mode. Initial mass profiles were acquired on a benchtop MALDI-TOF instrument, followed by high-energy CID MS/MS for structural confirmation on a MALDI-7090 MALDI-TOF-TOF spectrometer.

Used Instrumentation

• MALDI-8030 benchtop linear MALDI-TOF for isotopic profiling
• MALDI-7090 MALDI-TOF-TOF mass spectrometer for high-energy CID MS/MS
• 9-Aminoacridine matrix in negative ion mode

Key Results and Discussion

High-energy CID MS/MS spectra of standards and samples showed matching fragment patterns and isotopic distributions, enabling positive identification of key pigments such as Red 7, Yellow 6 Lake, Yellow 5 Lake, Carmine and Red 36. Four commercial lipsticks were analyzed:

• Non-vegan/non-organic shades contained Red 7 and Yellow 6 Lake; one also contained Yellow 5 Lake.
• Organic non-vegan lipstick featured Carmine, confirmed by characteristic fragments.
• Vegan/halal lipstick included Red 7 and Red 36.

Signal intensity variations reflected pigment concentration but did not impede confident assignment.

Benefits and Practical Applications

• Minimal sample preparation with reduced solvent use
• Rapid confirmation of pigment identity with high mass accuracy and isotopic resolution
• Applicability to regulatory compliance, quality control and dietary or cultural labeling needs

Future Trends and Opportunities

Advances may include quantitative MALDI-TOF-TOF workflows, expanded pigment libraries, integration with ambient ionization techniques and portable instruments for on-site cosmetic testing.

Conclusion

The combined extraction and high-energy CID MS/MS approach on the MALDI-7090 provides a fast, sensitive and reliable tool to verify cosmetic pigments across diverse product lines, supporting safety, regulatory and consumer demands.

References

1. Zion Market Research. Global Cosmetic Products Market Size and Forecast, 2024.
2. Belgacem O. et al. Rapid Commun Mass Spectrom, 2016, 30(3):343–351.
3. Riaz M.N., Chaudry M.M. Handbook of Halal Food Production, 2018.